Peel Stop

Peel Stop

There are certain jobs around the house that are harder than others. Prepping a house that has peeling paint is one of the hardest jobs. If you don't sand down all that peeling paint, your new paint no matter how much you pay for it will not stick. So when I heard about Peel Stop....it got my attention. Peel Stop is a primer that is like no other. It will stop peeling, checking, and chalking paint from ruining your paint job. You still have to sand off real flaking paint and make it smooth. Otherwise, you won't have a smooth paint job. But Peel Stop will seal the paint and not allow it to continue to peel. You can use Peel Stop inside or outside. And it's a water-based primer. That makes it low odor and recommended by professionals. It's a clear product and can be painted over with oil or latex. Just brush it on and roll it out to prime any edge or gap in the paint. Use it on guttering, wood siding, windows, doors, fencing, metals and masonry, concrete, stucco, vinyl, aluminum siding....did I miss anything? A gallon will cover between 300 to 400 sq feet, dries in about a hour and is water clean up. So if your house has a area that is peeling and your thinking of scraping and sanding, DONT. Use Peel Stop and make that job a lot easier.

Now to the email.....

Question: I have a double door with a glass insert that faces west. It sweats very bad and runs down the outside of the door leaving stains. I am fixing to refinish the door but is there anything that I can put on the glass to keep it from sweating? And the door gets the hottest part of the day...what is the best stain to use? I have used the Feed and Wax but it is time to refinish the door. I read your column all the time.

Answer: The reason that the glass sweats is because it is a single pane. The AC on the inside of the house keeps the one side cool, while the outside sun heats up the other side...so it sweats. Since you are going to refinish the door, install a new insert that is a double pane. It's easy to do, and all that has to change is the molding. There are couple of stains I like, Varathane or Mixwax. But what you really need to pay attention to is the varnish that you use. It has to be a Marine Spar Varnish. It has a UV protectant in it so that even though that door faces west...it will have good protection. This is a great question!

Question: I have a porcelain sink downstairs in a powder room that doesn't see a lot of activity. Well the faucet evidently has been dripping for a long time, but I didn't know it. I got the faucet replaced but the stain left from the dripping is terrible. It's like concrete on the sink. I have tried everything. Someone told me to use a pumice stone...I don't want to use that. Is there anything that will blast off the lime deposit but won't damage the sink?

Answer: There sure is...it's called Delete Germ! It's the best product that removes lime build up on porcelain. Just put some Delete Germ on a scrubby sponge and start scrubbing. If the spot is not close to the faucet stopper ( it might discolor it if its a gold or oiled rubbed bronze) you can just put the Delete Germ directly on the stain and let it work ….later you can just give it a quick scrub and it will come directly off.

Question: I have some outside lanterns by the garage. They have a glass that is a pain to clean. Now I thought I heard about a cleaner for chandeliers that you just spray on and let drip dry and it will be nice and clean and spotless. Is that true?

Answer: Haggertys Chandelier Cleaner does just what you want. You simply spray it on generously and let it just drip dry. It's great for all those chandeliers that have all the crystals hanging. But when you do a inside light fixture, put some plastic and newsprint down to catch all the cleaner.