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Fix Rotted Wood…Don’t Replace It!

It seems like I have been starting a lot of articles and conversations with “all the rain we have been having…” and then we talk about bugs, mildew and rotted wood. But rotted wood doesn’t happen only when we have had lots of rain but when it’s not protected and allows moisture to enter the wood. But when you have rotted wood you don’t have to replace it, we can fix it! Minwax Wood Hardener is a clear product made of solvents and hard resins. It’s the solvents that carry the resins deep into the wood, and when they dry they leave the resins behind that harden the wood. Then the resins seal the wood preventing any further moisture penetration. It not only hardens the wood, but it also makes it rock-solid and restores the integrity of the wood.


First, let me tell you DO NOT DIG OUT ANY ROTTED WOOD. I know the directions say to, BUT I promise it’s best to leave it all intact. If you dig it all out – you will spend a fortune in wood filler. And I am speaking from experience. I not only cleaned it out but I vacuumed it clean. My dad laughed so hard at me. Lesson learned. Shake up your hardener and with a disposable brush apply several quick coats to thoroughly saturate the area. After several coats the surface will be shiny and will be dry in 2-4 hours. Then if you have any voided areas, you can fill them with Minwax Wood Filler. It’s a two-part filler that you mix 16 to1. Use a plastic putty knife to push into the areas that need filling and in thirty minutes it will be firm enough to sand. Once it is dry you can paint and you not need to prime.


There are so many places that you use Minwax Hardener and Filler. Garage door bottoms, window sills, porch columns, and door bottoms are just a few places that it is much easier and more economical to fix, rather than replace the wood.


Now to the email…….


Question: I am writing about a flooring problem. It is not tile or hardwood but a manufactured called "Pergo." It is over 20 years old and has held up very well except for a spot about 4"x 4" by the patio door. Through the years I have been able to stain the worn spot to keep the color uniform with the rest of the flooring. Now we are down to bare wood look and I cannot get any stain to cover or adhere. I would like to find a solution to fix the floor instead of replacing it, because the rest of the flooring still looks so good. I read your articles in the Cypress Creek Mirror and would appreciate any help you can give me.
Answer: Let’s try a gel stain. Gel stains will stick to almost any surface. I like Old Masters Gel Stain because it is so easy to work with and they have so many colors. I am sure you can blend in your area to match the rest of the flooring. If you look at the directions on the can, it will tell you sand the surface, but I think that the stain will grab without sanding because you are not working with real wood. You can use a foam brush or a soft cloth to apply the stain, feathering out any lap marks while the stain is wet. And it would be better to do one light coat of stain, otherwise it will never dry. Trust me on this part. Let it dry 24 hours, and if the color is not right, just apply another light coat. Good luck, great question!


Question: We have guttering along the house and in one zone, it is leaking. We have tried several of the “NO LEAK” sprays, but it still leaks. Is there a product that you know of that can seal a leak on guttering?
Answer: From what you say I would suggest that you use the Through the Roof in the caulk formulation. It’s a thick version of the Through the Roof liquid and will stick to the metal guttering sealing up any leak.