Wall Paper Removal

I get a lot of questions that pertain to wallpaper removal and painting over wallpaper. Wallpaper removal is so much easier than it used to be. There is a tool called a Paper Tiger that perforates the wallpaper when you run it over the walls that are papered. It won’t damage the sheetrock underneath it only makes it easier for the wallpaper remover to work. After using the Paper Tiger then you spray on the wallpaper remover and let it work its way behind the paper through the perforations for about 2 minutes. The wallpaper remover that we found – is the one pros like to use. M-1 Wallpaper Remover is odor free, non-toxic and works quickly. M-1 Wallpaper Remover will make the glue release so that you can remove big pieces of wallpaper instead of tiny little pieces that would take you forever to remove. After removing the paper, there might be a glue residue left- spray with the M-1Wallpaper Remover and remove the glue. After that prime the walls with Stiks made by Insl-X (Coronado) and then you can paint with a premier latex paint.

Now if you just want to paint over the paper, (we do this all the time) make sure all the edges are stuck down tight and if they are not, then glue them down. Use a product called Sure Grip Seam Repair adhesive. Then use the primer Stiks, and a latex paint afterwards. Benjamin Moore paint makes it easy to pick color from their new 12 foot color center.

Now to the email…..

Question: I have an old chair that was at my Dad’s place. I want to use it in my office but the finish is just about gone. The varnish (I think) is peeling and the stain looks faded. What can I do to fix it – please don’t tell me to sand- I hate sanding. What stain should I use? Should I paint it instead?

Answer: Remove the varnish the easy way. Use Soy Gel Paint and Varnish Remover. It doesn’t smell and it is non-caustic. You can even remove the varnish off the chair inside the house because it has no smell. Brush on the Soy Gel about a quarter inch thick, and then leave it alone for a couple of hours. Then come back and test and see if the varnish is ready to be removed. If it’s ready, remove all varnish and Soy Gel with a damp sponge. Then you will be ready to stain. Zar makes a nice stain that goes farther than any other stain I have seen. Just wipe it on with a soft rag. When you are happy with the stain, use their varnish. Zar makes a water-based interior and exterior varnish. Always use 2 coats. As far as painting the chair….I wouldn’t do it. The chair is probably oak, and oak always looks better stained.

Question: We are trying to sell our house. It’s a 2 story and some areas of the floor upstairs creak. When we show the house and they step on those areas, they make a face. I know there is nothing wrong with the floor because I had a engineer look at it. So is there any way that I could fix that myself? We have done a lot of work around the house and I would just like not to call back another contractor. And the floor is carpeted. So am I going to have to remove that and then put it back down?

Answer: Relax, they make a tool and long screws that will go down past the carpet and into that floor joist that is causing the problem. My daughter had the same problem in her house and everyone always said the same thing. So she used the Squeek No More. It’s a tool that attaches to your drill, and then the long screws go down to attach to the floor joist – it will keep the plywood from rubbing up and down and causing the squeak. Those screws go way down and then the tool allows you to rock the screws back and forth to break off down below the carpet. It’s an easy fix. No removing carpet.